Jaisalmer

Howdy! Coming to you from Jaisalmer, a quaint little town on the fringes of the Great Thar Desert, comprised almost entirely of an exquisite sandstone fort dating back to 1156. We're less than 50 miles from the Pakistan border out here, sadly bereft of all those under-sea fiber optic Internet connections promised me so eloquently by Tom Friedman in The World Is Flat. So for now no photos!

You'll notice Jaisalmer was not included on my posted Route Map (to be hereafter referred to as Draft One). I did in fact visit Jaipur, as planned. But what I soon found out upon arrival to the city, which is basically one giant handicrafts shop, population 2.32 million, is that Jaipur is little more than a gateway to the exotic state of Rajasthan. There's tons to see and do here; many people I've met are spending a month or more just in Rajasthan, visiting the lake-filled holy sights of Udaipur and Pushkar. Sadly -- and I never thought I'd say this about a two month trip -- I don't have the time to see Rajasthan properly! But at least I made it to Jaisalmer.

Purely by coincidence, I've visited Jaisalmer during their annual Desert Festival. I rode out to see it yesterday in spectacular style: atop a camel! Through the Hotel Henna, an eerily dodgy establishment that is said to change it's name every couple years, I cautiously or an overnight camel safari. Along with three Aussies, one Brit, and one Greco - French dude, we left the hotel around eight in the morning, jeeping it out to a spot along the road where six moody, positively gigantic, humped beasts lay waiting.

What followed was six hours of sore bum and sun sun sun. "Sonia", my camel, was fine ride, as far as even-toed ungulates of the genus Camelus go. I liked thinking myself a rogue spice trader, traveling along an ancient route to Arabia, though sporting neither turban nor handlebar moustache, I was far short of fitting the bill. Still, it was a pleasure to meander through the dunes with an animal so mysterious as to call the arid landscape home.

The festival served as one helluva oasis: Must have been 25,000 people, all dressed to the hilt in Rajasthani garb (turbans / stashes for men, colorful saris with added head wraps -- plus tons of nose jewelry -- for the women). The content of the festival was a tad hit or miss; camel racing in particular I don't count among my favorite spectator sports. But the fireworks, backlit by a brilliant full moon, gave the day an inspiring end.

Next stop is Amritsar, and the exciting India - Pakistan border closing ceremony. But not before two consecutive night trains, beginning tomorrow! Better go rest up. Will post camel photos once I find a decent connection.

L.