Attari Border Ceremony

Just a few clicks west of Amritsar, via one helluva crowded public bus, sits Attari, a small village situated right at the India - Pakistan border!

No, it's not as dangerous as you're thinking; I've been to the DMZ between North and South Korea, and this is nothing like it. Actually, Attari is a functioning border during the day, hundreds of visa holders passing to either side. The expected India - Pakistan heat turns on only at border closing time, when both sides participate in a bombastic bout of choreographed goosestepping known as the Attar Border Ceremony.

It's a spectator sport, don't you know. Plopped in the concrete grandstands, I even had an India visor and mini-flag, plus a bag of popcorn! As the crowds assembled on the respective sides, Hindi/Urdu language pop hits blared with visible delight to the dancing (see: bouncing, sweaty) throngs. Would have joined in, but was land-locked by elderly French tourists in the bogus "VIP" foreign tourist seating. Intermittently, music gave way to a rousing voice at the microphone, prompting the crowd for an impassioned, rallying cry of "Hindu-stan! Hindu-stan!", a curious term in how it emphasizes the religious divide between the two nations.

It was all in good fun, though. The goosestepping routine, which seemed Monty Pyton-inspired, drew as many laughs as cheers. The prancing finished, representatives slowly lowered the two flags at the same intense rate, culminating in the Clang! of the shutting gate. Border closed, show over!